港式茶餐厅的转型：从日常茶歇到怀旧情怀
(The Transformation of Hong Kong Style Café: From A Regular Afternoon Tea to A Nostalgic Emotion)

Authors: Ho Hon Leung 梁浩翰, Ruijun Qin 覃锐钧, Raymond Lau 雷蒙 · 刘

Type: Journal (published in Chinese)
Journal Title: 中國名城, China Ancient City
中图分类号：C912 文献标识码：A
文章编号：1674-4144 (2020)-07-17(8)

The purpose of this study is to examine how the Hong Kong Style Cafes (cha chaan tang) transforms itself from a practice of everyday life to a sign of nostalgic past of the place. The establishment of this café culture is deeply embedded in all walks of life in Hong Kong. Its menu and its development reflect a unique culture of place and lifestyle where the East meets the West. A multi-disciplinary approach is used to research and analyze the last seventy years of the café culture development. The findings suggest that the practice of food consumption in Hong Kong style café is a hybrid cultural practice of the English high tea and low-social class Hong Kong afternoon tea. The paper documents how the cultural exchange between the British and the colonized Hong Kong people created this type of café. It stresses how this daily food consumption has evolved from simple bakery and tea/coffee to full meals serving people around the clock and how the practice transforms the experience to a cultural and place sentiment. Finally, the paper argues that the wake of rapid urban changes and Hong Kong sovereignty returned from the British to China inspires the locals to reexamine their place sentiment. The “re-discover” the value of Hong Kong style café transforms its practice to a nostalgic emotion that symbolizes the history of the city.

Keywords: Hong Kong style café, cultural heritage, nostalgia, place sentiment

摘　要：目的是考察港式茶餐厅如何从日常生活实践中转变为怀旧的地方。香港茶餐厅文化深深地植根于香港生活的各个层面。茶餐厅的菜单发展历程反映了东西方独特的地方文化和生活方式的交融。采用多学科的研究方法，对近70年来日常茶歇文化的发展进行了研究和分析。研究结果表明，港式茶餐厅的饮食消费实践是英国高茶与香港低社会阶层的下午茶混合的文化实践。阐述了英国人与殖民地香港人之间的文化交流如何创造了这种类型的茶餐厅；重点研究了这种日常食品消费是如何从简单的面包店和茶/咖啡演变成全天候为人们提供全餐服务的，以及这种做法如何将体验转化为文化和地方情调。最后，快速的城市变化和香港主权从英国返回中国，唤醒当地人重新审视他们的场所情怀。对于港式茶餐厅价值“重新发现”在于它把茶餐厅的实践转化为象征城市历史的怀旧象征。

关键词：港式咖啡馆；文化遗产；怀旧；场所情怀